Yeah, I was glad to catch this thread, though I've used this set up for about 6 years, first time I used it was in heavily sod bound soils, but was plowing down hill, also some small roots, was interesting, but not too much trouble to get it going right.
You want to obviously level it up in the furrow, by adjusting the leveling box, then set your top link, try er out, if it does not pull in at full depth, adjust the top link to make the point bear down a little more, if the points are sharp and adjsuted these don't appear to be that hard to deal with ( I also seem to have a mental block for remembering the correct terms for all the mold board plow wear parts. ). Mine does not have a gauge ( tail wheel ) either, not even sure if my draft position is working correctly, still not much of a problem to flip that soil.
About 4 years ago, previously turned, disc'd, then turned again as in the photo. Level box was seized, you can see the lean and I'd like to have been able to adjust that a little, so I fixed that box and can really roll over the sod now. Tjis was for a customer, was an old garden area, planted with grass, rye cover crop.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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