Alternators are pretty small potatoes in the 'make fit' world. Make some brackets to stick it on there. If it's got a substantial mount where it could be made to pivot it should be fairly simple. If it doesn't, mount it rigid as it's supposed to be and make a tensioner for it. This should be a lesson learned about buying internet parts that have a no return policy. If you bought that from a dealer they'd take that back for shame's sake. If they screwed up, they eat the cost. If you screwed up on the part #, they'd probably still take it back and mabey/mabey not charge you a restocking fee... I've been down that road before. It's one reason why I'm fond of dealing with a couple of dealers who know me and who work to keep me happy. The 'first time the part didn't fit game' is nothing new with some of these guys either. I was sold an adapter plate for a loader like that a few years ago. It clearly didn't fit my loader properly yet the engineering department of the company continued to insist that it would. We took some time to settle that one. I wasn't going to send it back to them and play the freight game either because I had a guy feeling that they were not going to cover freight. I ended up modifying it to fit and the dealer ate his profit on the deal, or so I suspect because I don't think he got anywhere with the company.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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