When we reinstall a flywheel one dude holds a sledge over on the other side up against the clutch drive disk big center bolt while the flywheel side dude armed with an oak block n hammer drives the flywheel in to her milk tight about as far as she goes, I think the spec is something like only 0.010 i.e. pretty much all the way in which reduces any excess side to side loose end play.
If shes throwing oil behind the flywheel make sure the lil pin on inner flywheel is fitting into the open slot in the oil slinger (located in the D shaped bearing/seal housing)... If the inner cork seal is bad we soak the new one in hot oil prior to installation (its in the D shaped bearing/seal housing also)
If the flywheel isnt re installed on the correct crank spline its VIBRATION CITY as its heavy side must be 180 opposite from heavy side of clutch drive disk. Torque them 2 big flywheel bolts tighter then Dicks hat band.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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