Seems if someone doesn't want components to forget (like switches) - there is nothing simpler than installing a self-exciting regulator in the alternator and using the one-wire hookup.
I don't particularly like the one-wire setup - but it does make things easy. To be technical, most of the 10SIs and 12SI will self-excite but they have to be really revving to do so (over 3000 RPM). Not practical, especially on a tractor.
If you use a conventional externally excited 10Si or 12SI and an automotive type ignition switch, you don't need a resistor or a diode to prevent run-on with the key off. Just run the excite wire to the ACC terminal, and the igntion feed (or injection pump feed) to the IGN terminal. When the key is in "off" position, ACC and IGN are isolated from each other and run-on won't happen.
That being said, it's pretty easy just to add a diode or resistor that cost less then a buck.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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