NAPA= Raybestos, CarQuest I beleive is Bendix, if you get the high grade stuff (usually the "Blue" box program rather than the red) you're pretty much getting the same stuff from all... The 'Quiet Stop' mentioned earlier is good stuff
I always recommend the Ceramic upgrade- better stopping, particularly when hot, and longer life plus less noise. Calipers? clean the slides, but otherwise if they aint broke don't fix or replace 'em- OE seems much better than most stuff off the shelf. Rotors? If they are in spec and have low runout, I don't machine them on my own cars/trucks- most should be machined on the car/ truck now due to bearing stack anyway ( I could go on and on about machining rotors).
FYI- 108k or my 2500hd and brakes are still fat front and rear. OE brakes last MUCH longer than the replacements.
also FYI- If you have rear discs, make sure you check the parking brake shoes inside the rotor hat - these are notorious for coming apart (esp in Fords)
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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