The 6011 rod is probably the most useful rod for an AC welder. It has deep penetration, will work well on a dirty and rusty surface, and has a quick "freeze" making it useful for vertical welding. It will give a good weld with relatively little practice. If you use multiple passes, you should chip the slag coating between passes, but it has some tolerance if you don't get the previous layer totally clean.
I have no idea what diameters of rod you may have. But IIRC, the 1/8" diameter can be run at about 100 amps. The size is determined by measuring the diameter of the steel rod, not the OD of the whiteish coating.
To get the arc started, strike the rod on the steel like you might strike a wood match, only a bit more vigorously. If the rods are old, put them in an oven at a lower temp like 200 to 250 F for a few hours to drive out moisture. The 6011 is pretty tolerant of moisture, but they are easiest to use when totally dry.
I built a lot of stuff with my Lincoln 225 AC machine, mostly using 6011 rods. If you are trying to weld thin metal like 14 gauge or thinner, you will need a different rod. The 6011 has too deep penetration for thin stock, and blows holes in it. It is easy to use with 1/8" thick stock and heavier.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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