The 6011 rod is probably the most useful rod for an AC welder. It has deep penetration, will work well on a dirty and rusty surface, and has a quick "freeze" making it useful for vertical welding. It will give a good weld with relatively little practice. If you use multiple passes, you should chip the slag coating between passes, but it has some tolerance if you don't get the previous layer totally clean.
I have no idea what diameters of rod you may have. But IIRC, the 1/8" diameter can be run at about 100 amps. The size is determined by measuring the diameter of the steel rod, not the OD of the whiteish coating.
To get the arc started, strike the rod on the steel like you might strike a wood match, only a bit more vigorously. If the rods are old, put them in an oven at a lower temp like 200 to 250 F for a few hours to drive out moisture. The 6011 is pretty tolerant of moisture, but they are easiest to use when totally dry.
I built a lot of stuff with my Lincoln 225 AC machine, mostly using 6011 rods. If you are trying to weld thin metal like 14 gauge or thinner, you will need a different rod. The 6011 has too deep penetration for thin stock, and blows holes in it. It is easy to use with 1/8" thick stock and heavier.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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