Re treated vs untreated lumber. All treated lumber dosen't warp. The pieces I have seen warp had obvious defects in the wood. Pick through pile and get straight grained wood with few knots. However, I prefer white oak lumber, again picked for straight grain and few small knots (or no knots). If you can find a local sawmill you could pick out a log with no branches and get him to saw that one, however you would be expected to take all the lumber from it with whatever unseen defects. For a small trailer 1 inch thick boards of oak would be fine, if having a log sawed I would want the boards 1 1/4 inches thich to allow for shrinkage when drying. If you install green boards and bolt the ends the board will shrink and probably have some small splits. Spaces between the boards will widen as the wood dries. Green oak would really need to air dry. Probably 6 months dried under shelter would be enough. You could Google "air drying lumber."
I like to coat the boards with used motor oil, on both sides before installition, once every year or to afterward. Galvanized bolts would still be better since tanic acid in the oak will react with the steel bolts and the wood will rot around the bolt. However this won't happed for a long time, especiall if the wood is oiled, and IME an oak floor with ordinary not plated hardware will last 20 years.(I'm in SC)
I use 8 inch wide boards. Wider ones are more likely to split. The sapwood, lighter in color and just under the bark, decays quickly so don't use boards that have sapwood in it.
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