Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Tractor Talk Discussion Board

Re: Farmall C clutch problems


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by ScottyHOMEy on December 08, 2008 at 13:54:17 from (71.241.214.215):

In Reply to: Farmall C clutch problems posted by Chris Rosemark on December 08, 2008 at 12:41:01:

Chris, there's a short list of things that could be contributing to your problem.

First off, it's not at all abnormal to have a little gear clash on these beasts. It's their nature. If it's bad enough that you actually have difficulty getting it into gear, then there's almost certainly somethin' need fixin'.

Most common is a dirty/sticky pilot bushing. This is the bronze bushing inside the rear end of your crankshaft. You see it through the center of the clutch when you have the ttransmission and torque tube off. It supports the front end of the shaft. Very common for this bushing to be worn or more likely gummed up, which causes the shaft to stick and turn with it it instead of the bushing turning freely around the shaft. The shaft turning will cause your gears to crash a little when you try to put the trnny into gear. One way to check this out (doesn't always work but usually does) is to leave the tractor running with the clutch pedal depressed, the shifter in neutral and the PTO engaged. Have a helper look at the PTO shaft. If it's turning, but only just creeping, they can try (CAREFULLY!!) to stop it or at least slow it down by hand. If that works, it's likely just a sticky bushing troubling you. If it doesn't try to turn, you may just be experiencing the usual clash of an unsynchronized tranny. If the PTO is turning with gusto, fast enough that the splines are a blur and it's speed goes up and down with the speed of the motor, they SHOULD NOT ATTEMPT to stop it by hand and you likely have another problem.

You could also try using a stiffer oil in the tranny, which will help to slow down any turning the input shaft might want to do brcaue of a sticky pilot bushing, or simply the momentum of the tractor just having been stopped. 90W is the standard, but someting like 85-140 might help if you're not in a very cold climate.

I'm a little interested/concerned about this tightening up of the free-play adjustment you talked about. Are you just tightening it up thinking that you're fixing something or are you actually taking up some slack each time?

If you are actually taking up new slack each time, I'm gonna go out on a limb at suggest that the jam nuts that lock down the finger height on your clutch cover weren't tightened down, allowing that adjustment to move. If it gets bad enough, you wind up with the fingers just flopping around out of reach of the fce of the bearing. It's not common, but I've seen it a couple of times. On a bigger Farmall (at least on an M, I know, BTDT), you could get the clutch off the flywheel and fix it. On a C, to do it RIGHT, and ONLY if that is the problem, would mean splitting to get the clutch off and set it up to specs and tighten everything down on a bench before re-installing.

You might be able to scope the potential out for that problem I'm describing by looking up through the hand-hole on the bottom of your torque tube and checking out two things. 1) Turn the engine by hand so that you can see the bolt and jam nut for each of the fingers, If any of those jam nuts are loose, you may have the problem I describe. 2) Set your free-play to the 1-7/16" (front of tranny cover to back of pedal) then crawl back under and look back the other way from the hole on bottom or through the hole on the side you use to grease the bearing carrier, and check out the clearance between the face of the throwout bearing and the fingers, Turn the motor over so that you can see each of them. That clearance should be about 3/16".

If those two things seem to be in order, and the noise is nothing more than just a little grinding before she clunks solidly into gear, then I go back to the pilot bushing as the most likely problem, if there is a problem at all. Remember they are noisy and clunky by their nature.

There's still the possibility out there that the clutch was not set up right and locked in properly to begin with, but ALMOST all of them come out of the box ready to go (cover and finger height) so keep that at the bottom of the list.

Start with the simple stuff.


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - The 8N and the Fox - by Zane Sherman. Dec. 13 1998, Renfroe, Alabama. Last niht I dreamed about the day that I plowed the field of about 10 acres over on what Jimmy and Dandy called the Ledbetter field. I was driving the 1948 8N Ford tractor that Jimmy bought in 48 new This was prebably in about 1951 and maybe even befor the house was built. This would have made me to be about16 years old and I drove the tractor for nothing and would have paid to drive it if I had had any money which I didn't, but neit ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Sell 1958 Hi-Altitude Massey Fergerson tractor, original condition. three point hitch pto engine, Runs well, photos available upon request [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy