Posted by Mark Mtown on January 13, 2009 at 21:01:56 from (32.178.16.254):
I need some assistance please. I just replaced the starter on an early model John Deere 3020. After reconnecting all the wires to the starter (reconnected just as they were on the old starter)I turned the key to crank the engine. I turned off the key but the engine continued to crank (starter remained engaged). To disengage the starter I had to disconnect the battery cable (I chose the negative cable). The cables connected to the large post on the starter selinoid became extremely hot before I could remove the cable from the battery. So hot the insulation began to soften on the cables connected to the large post on the selinoid. After allowing the selinoid to cool down I breifly tried the start the engine again with the key and once again had to remove the negative cable from the battery to stop the engine from cranking.
The first attempt at cranking the engine lasted for probably 2 minutes. The second atempt was about 6 seconds. In both cased the engine did not start and run (it was too cold the the battery was nearly dead).
The old starter had a 'dead' spot but I could always turn the key off and the starter would disengage and stop. Not so with the new starter purchased at a JD dealership.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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