If you're only going that deep, drive it by hand. Well head is 3 or 4 feet, compression coupling, 5 foot section of pipe, compression coupling, and hydrant or keep adding as many compression couplings and sections of pipe as you need. And don't confuse a regular coupler with a compression coupler cause they aint the same thing. And don't forget the pipe dope. But because of the hydrant are going to want to bore to below the frost line. I've gone 25 feet by hand with 2" pipe but that's a workout. Can probably rent a hand driver from your local hardware. Is like a 3 foot piece of solid axle with a 100 pound weight on it. Get an extra compression coupling to drive it cause its going to take a beating. The shaft goes down into the pipe as a guide, and lift and drop the dead weight, or if you're ambitious and have to go 25 feet or so, lift and slam down on it as hard as you can...but watch them fingers. The deeper I got, the less it drove...like about an inch or half inch per slam. It works though. Quite a workout. Good for the biceps. Gets the blood pressure right up there and makes you kind of sweaty. I've done it a few times. Smokin and gettin old don't help much.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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