Oil pressure guage. Probably zero to 150psi fsd. Oil pump. Pressure relief valve. Oil level in sump. Did you prime the oil pump before turning it over?
Remove plugs, oil valve gear (or even remove push rods to reduce loading in cam area) and cylinders, fill oil gallery and tow at a good 'engine turning' speed. Plugs removed will allow it to turn easily with no load on the bearings
Get oil pressure before trying to start it. --------------------- As a last resort!! Never needed to do it myself but you could even flood the sump with oil to above the oil pump and crank the engine SLOWLY to get oil flow. Then remove the excess oil before trying to turn the engine fast with the crank splashing in oil - liquids are not compressible!! --------------------- Then get that timing right, change the leaky pump, fit a piece of string or wire to the choke butterfly, replace push rods (if removed), fill the cooling system with hot water, dry those plugs with a torch, pop them in and go at a good tow speed - to try to start it on the main jet (faster than the idle jets in the carb).
When it starts, keep it going at a good rpm until hot, adjust for main jet metering then lower the revs to a little over tickover and play with the slow running needle, gradually lowering the revs until you have the slow running side and the main power jets sorted/balanced.
Of course, check for leaks, continuing oil pressure, nasty sounds, temperature, etc while you are doing all this. It should now be well hot and ready to tighten down the head gasket.
While still hot, loosen each bolt in turn by about 90 degrees and re-torque to full tightness. Do this for each of the head bolts in the tightening sequence given for the head. You might want to do it a second time later after some more running. Reset valve clearances as these will have been reduced a the head is pulled down tighter.
Should go if manifold is good, no air leaks and carb is somewhere near base settings.
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