Find the + post on either battery. Connect the charger's + clamp to it. Connect the charger's - clamp onto the chassis somewhere away from the battery. The batteries maybe ok. The cable crimp into the battery clamp and the - cable to chassis connection often looks good but has high resistance. Only way to really know what is going on is to measure voltage while cranking at each battery, post to post. Then measure the voltage from the starter's input post to the starter's cast body. Thing is I've never had anybody in 6 years of asking that question come back with voltage answers. Everybody just throws parts at it hoping to hit the problem. It’s very common to find a system with two 12’s in parallel. And find that either one battery is a dud and doing nothing. Or one battery connection is corroded. In either case one battery is trying to start the engine alone. As previously stated. The batteries have to be a matched pair or the results are fair at best.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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