Brother has an Oliver 550 he just got done fixing up. Independant PTO, 3 pt., loader, and about 45 HP. Would be a good model to look for, as well as a Super 55. It's slightly older, but basically the same and lots of parts interchange.
We have a Massey Ferguson 165. About the same, except it has live PTO instead of independant. It runs through the clutch pedal yet, but it's a 2 stage clutch. Ours also has power steering, which is very nice to have.
Either model would be a good choice, and both have pretty good parts availability. I think the 165, if it were fixed up to the extent that my brother's 550 is, with new paint, it'd be a REALLY sharp tractor. Those 100 series Massey's, in my mind, are one of the sharpest looking tractors out there when painted correctly.
Good paint isn't needed, just a bonus. JUst don't fall for a crappy paint job and the guy says it's fully restored. Chances are the engine hasn't been touched and will need to be overhauled soon.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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