lanse, i'd agree with mark that gas welding would be better to start with, but... a oxy acetylene rig is spendy, there is tank lease or ownership, or rental, plus fills ect. in your stuation, a stick arc welder would be your most useful right now.look for an old name brand, lincoln, hobart, airco, ect 180 to 260 amp 220 volt buzz box. you can get welding rods from your local farm store, even home depot and menards sells em. e-6011 and e-6013 are good starter all purpose rods for steel. prolly 1/8 inch diameter. a decent welding helmet, and a good pair of heavy leather welding gloves. i have an old lincoln "tombstone" lincwelder 180 amp buzz box. it was old when i got it 40 years ago. it still welds great. welders have a duty cycle, basically how many minutes out of every 10 minutes you can weld, 20 percent would be 2 minutes out of every 10, the welder cools the rest of the time. anything over a 20 percent will get you by. you do spend time chainging rods, chipping slag, grinding ect, so a real high duty cycle isnt that important for your application. here is a pic of my old tombstone welder.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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