Nearest RV store will have a battery isolation relay. It looks like a starter relay, but is designed for continuous operation rather than for short bursts like a starter.
It should come with a wiring diagram. If it doesn't, the small terminal goes to a source of 12 volt power that's only hot when the engine is running (or the key is on, if you can't find a source that operates from the engine itself). This ensures that the relay will disconnect the trailer battery from the tow vehicle battery when you shut the tow vehicle off.
There will be two larger terminals. One of these (either one on the units I've seen) goes to the hot side of the battery through a fuse or circuit breaker sized for the size of wire you're using. The other large terminal goes to the AUX connection on the trailer connector. # 10 or 12 wire with a 30 amp fuse/breaker is probably a good size for the interconnect wiring, as it will somewhat limit the maximum amount of current a dead trailer battery can draw.
What kind of a tow vehicle are you using? If you have a factory tow package, I would expect most newer vehicles to have a trailer battery charge circuit already in place. My '99 Ford does.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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