Kyrr, soundguy is right. BTW, he helped me on pressure testing my hyd pump. Check the archives with his "name +pressure test".
Also, in my book it describes a gauge, I bought at the hyd shop for about 20 bucks. and relief valve setup to test the pump while it is on the tractor. The picture is unreconizable because it is so dark, or I would send it to you.
anyway, I plumbed the gauge (with a "tee") into the allen head bleed screw in the pump body. next the valve, (a brass gate valve for my water hose), attached to that was a hose (clear tubing, so i could see any bubbles) dumped it into the fill hole on the rear axle.
MAKE SURE THE VALVE IS OPEN BEFORE YOU START THE TRACTOR!!! TRIPLE CHECK THIS!!!
at a good idle, somewhat warmed up, start closing the valve. watch the pressure gauge, mine went to 1800 psi before the system relief valve opened. The pump checked out okay. I don't remember what the specification is. maybe 2200 output from the pump itself. but it was enough to let me know that the pump was good.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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