Lou, I've done that, left the other half up. In the hedgerow across the road, where our property butts up to the neighbors, the trees provide a nice privacy wall. Really healthy maple, split at the crotch one year, got that piece cut up, then another 1/3 split off, but after that, there was nothing else that would come down, completely healthy tree. I cut vertically up/down, to the partial stump and cut that at an angle to help the water run off. This maple was a thin/tight bark type, good sap too, never been tapped but was cut in late winter, I did boil up some syrup from it. I'm not sure if the tree paint that can be used where you trim limbs would help, usually rot and decay and or ants are what weaken these and black cherry, though the latter will hold on right till the end. This maple just outgrew it's ability to hold it's own weight, I see 2 more of the same genetics, looks like one could cinch a cable or a few around the weak area to prevent the split from getting bigger. Luckily, all are in places where there is nothing nearby, realizing that in some situations, no other choice but to take it down. Been a few years and the exposed area is still hard, weathered but no signs of insects or decay, remainder of the tree top is full of leaves and maintains the continuous sight line of trees, kind of glad I did it that way, hard to say what will eventually happen though.
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Today's Featured Article - Box Plow Blues - by Tom Schwarz. One of the first implements most tractor owners obtain is the box plow. For very little money, this piece of equipment promises to plow and flatten any hill or vale on your ranch road or farm. At least that's what I thought! As simple as a box plow appears, it can be rather challenging to make work correctly. In our sandy soils of Florida, traction is king. You can never have wide enough tires or heavy enough weights to get all the traction you want … unless you own a monster tractor. U
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