Well I"m just going to answer all in this post since the OP thread was fragmented so bad.
The pic of the standing seam Tom has shown is not used all that much in the SM trade any longer. The one that replaced that one looks very similar and it has a "L" leg on it"s side, aka the male part of the joint, then a inverted "U" clip fits over the "L" to hold the SM to the structure then another "U" slips over the "L" and the clip then a set of seamer tongs will button punch the standing seam so it can not come apart.
A very strong joint design and can be machine made or hand made very easy. Common sizes: "L"= 15/16" or 1-3/8" "U"= 1" or 1-1/2"
As too the butyl caulk. Here"s a simple test as too why use Butyl vs Silicon. Take 4pcs of any gage of SM, same length and width, smear on Butyl on two pieces then stick them together and let dry a couple days. Do the same with the silicon.
Now try to separate the metals and see what happens. You will tear the butyl SM up trying to separate the SM as it seals and adheres to SM better than any other type of caulk.
You can also ask any roofing inspector about butyl. He will tell you he"s not seen a leak with using Butyl caulk.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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