If it's a welded wheel rather than a riveted wheel, I don't see a problem. I'd suggest blasting/wire wheeling at least the bead area of the wheel down to abre metal, then paint it so you have a good sealing surface first tho. Get a good heavy duty valve stem that has the removable outer body. Apply bead sealer to the valve and the tire as you install... then blow it on with ether or a Bead Chetah if necessary. Be especially carefull if you use ether. I'm very skeptical if you're get an 18.4R34 blown without one or the other.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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