If the reservoir also supplies the hydrostat pumps, that's a potential way to damage them as well as the hyd. pump and they aren't cheap. Once the oil level was getting near the bottom, you would probaly get some cavitation(air) in the lines and that can damage pumps and other components. I'd loosen the suction line like the manual says to eliminate any chance of damaging the hydraulics or what I did to drain most of the oil from my Cat was buy a cheap($20) rotary barrel pump and a piece of thicker wall rubber hose(so it wouldn't collapse) to fit on the suction side. I stuck the hose in the filler and pumped about 90% of the oil out. I used the drain for the last little bit but it's kind of awkward right above the track. If there's a plate to get inside the reservoir to the suction strainers, you could take that off and either weld a fitting for a drain on it, or at the bottom of the reservoir. Of course this is if you have a steel tank. Being able to access the inside of tank would allow you to clean out any metal shavings from drilling a hole for a drain. My manual says to change the hyd. oil every 1000 hrs. It would be a real pain without a drain. Dave
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Today's Featured Article - An AC Model M Crawler - by Anthony West. Neil Atkins is a man in his late thirties, a mild and patient character who talks fondly of his farming heritage. He farms around a hundred and fifty acres of arable land, in a village called Southam, located just outside Leamington Spa in Warwickshire. The soil is a rich dark brown and is well looked after. unlike some areas in the midlands it is also fairly flat, broken only by hedgerows and the occasional valley and brook. A copse of wildbreaking silver birch and oak trees surround the top si
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