I put hundreds of miles on gravel and shale roads every year. My wife drives an old diesel Volkswagen 60 miles a day all on gravel and shale roads. I have not found any difference in tire choices with lighter vehicles other then tread thickness. They all can hit a sharp stone and get pierced, 2 ply up to 8 ply. The killer is often when a rock clips the sidewall. The difference as I see it is . . . put a hole in a $150 tire and you're out more money then if you put a hole in a $50 tire.
Biggest difference I've had with all my rigs, light cars and heavy trucks is how much tread is on the tires, not the ply-ratings. The thicker the tread, the less apt to get puntured.
If you're buying new tires, I suggest you check each tire's specs on-line and buy according to tread thickness.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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