Posted by TimV on March 15, 2010 at 07:55:56 from (24.39.241.218):
In Reply to: drill bits posted by Harry J. Case on March 14, 2010 at 20:24:44:
Harry: as Gene mentioned, a carbide-tipped masonry drill will often work in a pinch. As a general rule, most drill coatings are just a way of charging $5.00 for a bit with $1.00 of steel and $0.01 of coating on it, particularly in homeowner-grade bits like Craftsman (regardless of the "professional" label on them). You'd be much better served with a good-grade uncoated drill bit. If necessary, you may have to go with an all-carbide bit, though those are not typically used in a hand drill--if you can get the piece off and clamp it in a drill press, you'll have much better luck, as you'll be able to apply more and more consistent pressure to it. Carbide is brittle and will snap before it flexes, which is hard to avoid if you're using a hand drill, particularly when drilling into a rounded surface.
Truth be told, particularly in a low-speed application like a tractor, I'd leave good enough alone and just replace the part if and when it ever needed it.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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