Bryan, since Watts = Volts x Amps (were talkin unity 1 Power factor here with a pure resistive load), 6 x 300 = 1800 total watts divided by 120 volts = 15 amps in the branch lighitng circuit.
If using 12 gauge conductors Id still (old engineering habit and practice) use an 80% max for a continuous load and 80% of 20 amps is 16 amps so YESSSSSSSSSSSS 12 Gauge wire will work.......(still somewhat subect to temperature and insulation and number of conductors in an enclosure etc etc etc)
While a 15 amp rated switch is rated to handle 15 amps, I never liked to design right up to the limit and usually applied an 80% factor, so I would prefer a switch rated at 20 amps OR ELSE use a lighting contactor (relay) and they even make circuit breakers suitable for switching use as I recall (been retired tooooooo long lol)
Id be comfortable with a 20 amp overcurrent protection device (circuit breaker or fuze) on a branch circuit of 12 gauge wire.
NOTE Incandescent arent very efficient (Lumens per watt) sure you dont want to consider at least Fluorescent (can use high efficiency ballast rated for cold temp starts ya know) lamps or even High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighting such as coated Metal Halide which yield a decent color rendition. Sure the initial cost is much higher butttttttttttt you get much longer lamp life and much lower electric utility cost
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Today's Featured Article - George's Fordson Major - by Anthony West (UK). This is a bit of a technical info to add on to the article about George's Major in the "A Towny Goes Plowing" article. George bought his Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00. There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken by Harold alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that the major was produced late 19
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