My suspension instructor in trade school showed me the hammer trick 35 years ago. It helps to use a big hammer as an anvil on one side of the joint and then wail on it with a slightly smaller hammer on the other side. Something like a 4# and a 3# hammer.
You also need to provide some way to pre-tension to get the taper to pop out of the knuckle. I've used a pry bar, couple of bungee cords, have a helper pulling it apart while you're banging away.
I've never used a pickle fork or the scissors style puller; worked every time with just the hammers.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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