I have no idea on that thing where the steering is. Follow the steering wheel and the hydraulic lines.
If you are mechanically inclined, you can get new seals and piston rubbers, a/k/a a kit and repair the cylinders your self. Just have to figure out how to get the end caps off. Since there probably is no local dealer around, you can take the rod loose and then take the rod and cylinder down to a hydraulic shop and find the right seals and orings. Cheaper than letting them rebuild them. If the rod and/or cylinder are pitted so bad, they are tearing up the seals, then it may be cheaper to replace it with a new one from bailleynet.com or surpluscenter.com.
If you start taking valves and such apart to clean them, you will probably by taking it wrapped in a rag in a pan or bucket to a hydraulic place anyway to match new orings. If it was IH, the parts diagram would have a size and number.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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