Always replace a seal if you disturb it. As far as pulling the drum.... I guess you need to figure out what a seal costs VS your time... and if it's your time (free) VS his money, I'd probably opt for him buying 2 new seals. Really, it takes a lot of time to pull wheels and drums. Not so much time to pop the axles and pull the hubs unless they're bud wheels and you have 1" air gun... then you get into the chance of needing to change rusted studs that won't thread out... If it's got Dayton/spoke wheels... and you remove them, and you're not practiced at setting them up, you get into a lot of time to set them straight.... so it's easiest to just pull the hubs. If you don't have a dolly or pallet forks on something then a greased sheet of plywood works good enough to slide the duals/hubs on intact. Beyond that, it's just good practice to change an old seal on something like that.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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