you left alot of important stuff out.. like 'what' ford tractor.
if this is a ford with a sidemount dizzy.. say.. everything from 51 thru 64.. and you are on 12v.. I'd get a Napa IC14SB coil, and use no resistors.
if this is a front mount N.. then you have some options.
use the newer 12v coils AND the oem dash mounted ballast resistor.. or use the old 6v coil, oem dash resistor, PLUS the new resistor that comes with the kit.
yes the resistor gets warm, it is disipating heat ( wattage ) hot enough to ignite something? maybee I guess.
spark potential at the spark plug is mostly a function of air gap and atmospheric pressure and the specific atmospher in the combustion chamber. for all intents and purposes, a 6v coil and 12v coil both make more than sufficient high voltage to jump the .025 air gap under engine compression pressure.
if it's a side mount.. I prefer the 12v napa coil and no resistor.
if it's a post 65 3 cyl gasser.. it's 12v anyways with a 6v coil and a resistor wire setup ..
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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