I used one for years, and always used a very long stout screwdriver to pop it off. To get it back on is a bit more difficult as it likes to slide away from the top of the ball. Thus I made up a hard wood 2x4 with a bit of a dent in the end,,,centered it on top, then drove it down,,and onto the ball,,with a hammer. Once you get the knack, it works fairly well.
Now mine, and I presume yours too, has a spring loaded wedge that needs to be pushed back,,,to release the clamping effect of the two metal side plates that attach to the end of the pitment stick. The big screw driver,,helps force the wedge back,,and load the spring up.
Actually, I had more trouble every time I hit an ant hill on the outer end of the cycle bar,,,and the unit came un-latched and swung back,,,dropping slightly. Then when I backed up, to re-snap it into position,,,it wanted to bind up. I resolved the problem by carrying an old car bunper jack to lift the side up a bit.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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