3" x 8" solid oak is what is used on out 16 ft long wagons that carry 130 small squares (plus the steel cage). With your proposed length of 26 to 30 ft, there is no way that you will have sufficient support with any of these stringer sizes you have described. You might consider an old straight truck frame for your planned length. Maybe you can find a frame from a mobile home. It is a thin I beam that I would cut and double, welding 2 I beams side by side for each stringer. Where you locate the rear bolster, and how much rear overhang you have will affect the design. A 30 ft long wagon is huge!!
Does your 12 ton wagon gear have a tandem rear axle, making it a 6 wheel wagon? If so, I think you could get by with about 8' of rear overhang, but with a single axle rear bolster, I would guess that 5 to 6 ft would be your max overhang. The overhang length and future load on it will counter balance a similar length of weight/load in the critical span length between the front and rear bolsters. In engineering terms, deflection is the beam being bent /flexed down (the span between the bolsters). But that can be reduced by the inflection (push up) from the load behind the rear bolster (like the balancing of a teeter tooter). With a 6 ft rear o'hang, and a 3 ft front o'hang, you will have a 21 ft span in the middle....and that is huge.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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