I've got a good working (but rusted out) 1991 diesel 4WD Suburban with a 700R4. Probably close to same as the 4L60. It's a ex-school transport rig with 130K and drives great. That's the trans I was thinking of pulling apart, inpsecting, maybe put a kit in, an use in this 86 Blazer. Just trying to make sure it's worth the effort.
As to heat, all my automatic trucks have big coolers. In fact, my Ford F250 has a huge cooler with a thermostatic bypass so the cooler doesn't work in extreme cold weather.
This Blazer didn't get hot when it failed. Just all of a sudden, when 2nd tried to shift to 3rd - it acted like it was fighting itself (like in two gears at once). Then it broke loose but slipped like crazy in 3rd - and would not shift into 4th at all. So, I had to drive home in 2nd. Whatever the failure was, it was not gradual. Worked perfect - and then - it worked lousy.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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