To change to a screw on filter, you will need the filter and its base, and work your way through the hoses and fittings to adapt. Another way to make priming easy (if your tractor doesn't have a priming pump built in), is to put a three way valve in the line between the tank and the filter. With the 3-way valve you can then use a small primer pump (electric or manual) drawing from a fuel can to prime the filter you just changed. With the handle on the 3-way turned to "saddle tank" the pump will prime the filter(s) and not pump back to the tank. We always loosened the line going out of the filter and primed until we had solid fuel then re-tighten. After priming, turn the handle on the 3-way back to "main tank" so the fuel system will flow normally. The 3-way I mention is like when we had a saddle tank on our truck and could switch tanks on the fly. NAPA and others still sell them.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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