My biggest concern would be the screen for the oil sump pickup. That gets clogged, no oil to anything. I'm not trying to scare you, but been there, done that. Scrapped a 427 Chevy that way. Crank, rods, cam, all let go because the oil flow stopped. When I opened it up and took it apart, metal flakes clogged the oil pump sump pickup screen. Even ended up with metal particles in the oil passages in the block. Scrap, scrap, scrap.
Of course though, I blew up a guy's fresh 402 because I gave him a cam from '65 through '68 BB without thinking about it, and the rear bearing and journal changed in '69 for BB oiling and his was a '70. Oops, that was a big mistake. He called me and asked if he could borrow a cam, and I GAVE him the cam for free fresh out of the box to get him going, he put it in, Zero pounds of oil pressure, and meltdown within minutes on its first run. As I helped him take it back out of his Chevelle and apart, a lightbulb went off...last journal changed in '69, don't interchange the cam with an earlier model unless solder the oiler shut in the rear bearing, and redrill to much smaller 3/16", or will lose all oil pressure...and that's what I forget to tell him to do. I never did tell him what happened, but I rebuilt it for him at cost, no labor, and used a correct cam and bearings.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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