I would look for a shank if I were you. In our area, a chisel plow is 15 HP/foot minimum. We rent a disc chisel (twisted shovels) every once in a while to pull behind our Oliver 1855 and 7 shanks is all that tractor wants.
Last year we borrowed a neighbors 7 shank sub soiler and dropped it to 5 shanks. Was able to sink it about 18", which would have been well below any plow pan. They pulled 7 shanks with a 150+ HP Magnum. Our 1855 dynoed at 105 a few years ago
That was a heck of a load, and we bent a cheaper cat. 2 top link before borowing their cat 3 top link that would hold up to that amount of pressure. Would do it again in a heart beat though. Dad drove along side of me while I was running it and said the ground was heaving up by the front axel from it.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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