Only if I knew there was plywood underneath, at least 5/8" thick, I had special screws (special coarse threads for plywood), and I was fastening the roofing the "old way" via the raised ribs. Putting screws through the raised ribs is not recommended anymore, but does keep the panels from distorting when on imperfect surfaces.
Most if not all the companies now recommend fastening on the flat areas below the raised ribs. You need to get screws tight enough to seal, and if the surface is even a little uneven, the metal distorts. So, going over shingles is a problem due to their inherent unevenness. If there is board sheaving underneath the shingles, you can hit a gap between boards, a rot spot, a knot, etc. and wind up with a hole in the metal and no place a screw will grab. Using 1" or 2" boards allow a sure place to grab and a good uniform surface the entire width.
I've done plenty of steel roofs over new plywood, which works fine. You still need a min. of 5/8" though, and the special screws made for it.
As far as old houses go, at least in my area of NY, very few have plywood sheaving. It's usually poor quality, rough-cut 1" pine or hemlock boards (5/4) and lots of gaps between them, and many loose knots and rot-holes.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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