All I use are Ni-cads or NiMiH batteries - and sometimes there are problems.
A good, fully charged Ni-Cad or NiMiH will be around 1.35-1.4 volts. A fully charged alkaline will be 1.58 volts. With some things, it makes no difference. With others, power in the 1.4 volt range and above is needed - so a fully charged Ni-Cad can work well at first, but soon after stop working, when it gets only slightly discharged.
My GPS and my camera both have "battery type" selectors that lets me tell the device what type of battery I'm using. That works well in stuff that gives you a choice.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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