Thank you everyone for the input! I know my dad had one in 1980 or 81, last of the 30 series i guess. Think he had the smaller 3388. They had a 1066 before, then traded it for this 2+2. Said it was different driving it. Had to be sure to turn way before the fence. And doing so the implement would go into the fence first before coming away from it. They later got a 496 disc to replace the 475 the 10 pulled. It was 15' jumping to 21'. Still have the 496 disc not the tractor. He later traded the 2+2 for a 3394 case IH. Ten more horse and MFWD. Said that 3394 was better pulling. But he jumped up to big a disc for a 3388 too. Should have stayed with the 15' and ran faster.
I figured if I got one, it'd be a 3588. I would more or less pamper it with small jobs such as a 5 yard soil mover being the hardest thing pulled. Maybe a 1000 gal sprayer, some bat winging ditches, pulling a 400 bu grain cart on the headland, and change out the single 1000 PTO to dual and run it on some augers. We have the big 200+ tractors(7250 & MX255) to do the hard work, and I wouldn't expect much out of the 2+2. Sometimes I think that MX may be worse on repairs than some of the older tractors in my collection(706 & 1566)lol.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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