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Re: Drive belt on go kart


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Posted by Brad Gyde on January 18, 2011 at 14:59:43 from (184.247.239.212):

In Reply to: Drive belt on go kart posted by andy in milwaukee on January 17, 2011 at 16:15:41:

I don't have one of these carts, but it sounds to me like you have a problem.

This drive setup sounds VERY SIMILAR to snowmobiles (to which I'm no stranger) if I'm understanding the description properly.

With the engine off, the belt should be "loose" in the sheaves. To ease installation/removal, the DRIVEN sheave should be able to be opened up. On a snowmobile, you would turn the INNER part of the sheave, and spread it open. Belt goes on DRIVE sheave first, and should EASILY slip around the driven when "opened"..

If the cart don't try to "go" when you pull the recoil, or at an idle, I would say it is NOT TOO TIGHT.

I don't understand why you'd be shredding belts.. As I ride my sled pretty hard and have only shredded belts a few times. I have peeled the inner "cogs" off, but that usually happens when JUMPING throttle and the track bites hard, or a very sudden lockup of the drive train.

I suppose the belt being backwards could be part, as some sleds (certain SKI-DOO's, for example) and different "pitches" on either side, therefore, requiring they go on in a certain rotation. Otherwise, checking sheave alignment is a good suggestion, as well as for "roughness", as this will also eat a belt.. But I'm thinking by the sounds, the belt has been forced on, therefore, breaking interior cords, and well, you know the results.. (I only say this because I was young and forced a belt on, and that was when I was shredding belts on the sled). A option may be to remove the driven sheave, slip the belt around it, and slide it back on. (The driven sheaves are easily accessible on sleds, and is often easier than trying to muscle against the heavy tension of the springs)

Don't mean to be a smart a$$, or to offend, just trying to offer my results with a similar setup

Brad


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