When I worked in the local gas station, I patched a couple boots every Saturday during the winter months. We used to use hot patches, but now I use regular roll on cold patches. They hold good if you prepare the area first. I carefully use my little weld grinder to buff an area a little bigger than the patch diameter. Blow off the residue, then coat the buffed area with tire patch cement. Let it dry, then carefully place the patch, rolling it on good with a kneading tool. Try to not touch the sticking surfaces with anything but the patch.
For big wounds, you can overlap patches.
Never tried patching a wound on the soul.
I just counted the patches on my old LaCross chore boots. There's nine on the right boot, and ten on the left.
I have a brand new pair in the closet, but these ain't dead yet. By the way - the new ones are made in China. It was a tough decision - but I've worn LaCross boots for 30 years.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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