Try your battery cable spark test by removing one alternator cable at a time. First remove the two wire plug at the alternator, then check if the bat cable sparks are gone. If the alternator is the type that has the side plug with red wires attached in Bob's picture, make sure that only the one marked #1 on the case, has power when the switch is on. With age and weather, those alternator plugs get rotten and allow the plug terminals to pull out of the plastic, so it is easy to get them on the wrong terminal. If those wires are reversed, it will drain the battery. Any auto parts store has new replacement plug kits for around $2. Replacing it protects your tractor from battery drain or electrical shorts /fires from the alt terminals touching the alt case. If the alternator has the rear plug as shown in Bob's lower picture, a battery drain can be a bad external regulator under the steering column base, remove the cover plate right at your feet level.(remove the 4 wire plug from the regulator and see if the bat cable sparks are gone), if so , regulator has stick field relay points.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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