Not mistaken,just put a picture of what I was talking about being toe close mesh,a gear set is a gear set, regardless of what oil they run in, you have to move the pinion by shims or the ring gear by shims,exceptions are newer designs. older ones are either shimmed,or spaced by shims to get the desired effect of gear mesh.Without bad wear characteristics, howling or annoying whine,although with some older models some whine is unpreventable.The tooth contact should be shaped,for lack of a better description, like a cigar or submarine,with the most contact at the center of the tooth,not at either edge or close to the top only.Not trying to ruffle feathers,but I can remember rear differentials and transmissions ran 40% mineral oil for lubrication,makes no difference what the lubrication is,it is all set the same way,just different angles of the tooth. Regards,Victor & LOU
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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