Like Bob said, use the smallest brazing tip you have to heat the bleeder red, then let it cool and screw it out. I try turning the bleeder with a six point wrench or socket to the point where I don't think it will budge. When I get to that point I heat it. With drum brakes, I heat the bleeder real quick and cool it quick to avoid damaging the slave cylinder seals. Like the other older guys I don't have the patience but darn, I'm just too cheap to replace the whole works sometimes. This is on my vehicles and I'm on my dime though. If I was doing it hourly for someone else and I wanted to be sure a good job was done, then new calipers would probably be used.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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