If the drive band is loose, and it still drives, and if the brake band is working and will stop it, but makes the engine load, it has issues in the PTO unit. It will need to come off, Sorry about that. My way of adjusting the PTO is as follows, but will apply when it is fixed
Band PTO Here is my take. Look at the linkage and be certain it has no lost motion, there are pins and woodruff keys in the system that can be loose. Fix if found. Place the lever 1/2 the way between the latching points of on (up) and off (down). Remove the little dome cover on the PTO box. Under this will be two lock nuts and two adjusting screws. The PTO should turn by hand (engine off). Loosen the lock nut, and turn the front screw in until you can feel the shaft start to resist turning by hand. Loosen it just until it will turn free, no more. Do the same for the rear adjuster so that it can rotate free, but no more. The front adjustment is the drive adjust, the rear is the brake adjust. If the screws are down level with the adjustment lock nut top, the bands are worn, and will need replacing, or relining at a clutch shop. That is not quite the book way, but I have used it many times. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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