gail brigham said: (quoted from post at 08:49:25 05/28/10) I traced the wire toward the battery looking for an external resistor but couldn't find one. I thought it would look like an automobile resistor made of ceramic mounted somewhere along the way to the switch terminal, etc. (nothing on the distributor side for sure). And yes, I probably should check for something else I may have overlooked. By the way, it shouldn't matter which way the distributor locks in right? I did match the #1 wire with the hole in the dist. that is marked with a "1" ..... with the notch in the dist. cap in the right place I should be okay, huh? That's the only other thing I can think of .... points were set at .025 just like the manual prescribes, everything else looks to be okay.
Now you've lost me. #1 spark plug DOES go to the #1 position on the distributor cap, and that cap SHOULD fit on the distributor in only ONE position, but if you've had the distributor OUT of the engine, or otherwise moved the distributor, it is CRITICAL that it be put back in the correct position.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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